135 East 92nd Street
New York City, NY 10128
212-831-1402
Rating: Highly Addictive
Cuisine: Italian
Entree Price: $26-$32
Meals: Dinner: Mon - Sun: 5:30 - 11:00
Lunch: Tue - Sat: 12:00 - 2:30
Most addictive dish: roasted chicken with chili flakes, lemon and olive oil
Review
Recently, I asked some friends for recommendations on the UES. The responses were not kind. “The upper east side is a culinary wasteland,” said one friend. “Are you kidding me? Haven’t you given up on the upper east yet?” said another. It was clear that part of town was getting no love from my foodie friends (or from me for that matter)...but that’s all changed now. Because after months and months of searching, I’ve been to the mountain top, I’ve looked over, and I have seen the promised land of the UES – and its name is Sfoglia.
The interior is perfect. Soft, warm lights, mismatched antique tables and a pistachio-colored marble bar strike a perfect balance between an attitude of “hey, I’m a worldly New York with character” and “I know the value of subtlety.” Comfort is guaranteed here (though getting a last minute reservation is not).
But comfort should not be confused with complacency, as the menu crackles with innovative twists on traditional dishes that make Sfoglia an UES destination restaurant (the only one in my opinion). All of the pasta dishes are outstanding including the Bolognese (their signature pasta) and the carbonara (a surprisingly simple, yet flavorful preparation). The roasted chicken was one of the best I’ve ever had and is prepared with chili flakes, lemon and olive oil – it was super tender but crisped up at the same time. A little known fact: if you take the carbonara and dip it in the jus of the roasted chicken, you might be fast tracked for nirvana…and if you don’t groan while eating that, you’re just not alive.
The menu over-delivers again and again. Nothing is boring here, and nothing tastes like what you imagine it will – it tastes better. Sfoglia is a rare restaurant with a loyal following in the Upper East Side. Try it, and you’ll be quoting MLK, Jr just like I did.